Understanding the Ingredients in Cosmetics.
When buying another jar of cream, a lipstick, or a shampoo, we sometimes examine the ingredients of the given cosmetic. But at seeing the incomprehensible and horrible terms, we are seized with panic! Are these ingredients indeed of use? As weird as it sounds, they usually are. We’ll try to explain all these complicated terms and how they affect our skin.
Abietic Acid – a product of nature extracted from the gum-resin of needle-leaved trees. Its alcohols, abietol and dihydroabietol, are applied in cosmetics in soap and lacquer production. It’s slightly toxic.
TEA Alkyl Sarcosinates - anion active PAV. These are transparent yellow liquids containing 40% of the basic substance. Supple PAV does not irritate your skin and mucous membranes. They are applied in shampoos, bath foam, and as ingredients of intimate cosmetics.
Andicilenamide – substance extracted from castor oil, it is applied during packaging. It helps to preserve preparations considerably longer.
Benzoic resin – a fawn resin of tropical plants with vanilla smell. It preserves cosmetics containing fats and oils from rancidity. The resin infusion produces an antiphlogistic and anticeboric effect. It is used in production of cosmetics for problematic skin.
Borax (sodium tetra borate) – white transparent crystals soluble in water and glycerin. It softens roughened cells and whitens your skin.
Boric acid – white powder solute which produces an antiphlogistic and disinfectant effect. It can be found in lotions and toilet water.
White clay (kaolin) – powder imbibing secretion of sebaceous glands. It is included into the ingredients of medical powders, masking creams, drying-up masks.
Bleached wax – whitened bee wax which is used as cream and lipstick basis.
Vaseline – a product of worked-out rock oil. It’s not absorbed by the skin and considered to be an ideal basis for massage creams.
A-hydroxide acids – active biocomponents which are contained in some cosmetic products (gels and lotions for face refining, moistened creams, etc.), they delay aging of the skin and ameliorate complexion. They gently dissolve the tissue substance among horn cells and thus revive skin (so-called peeling effect).
Glycerin – is used for softening dry skin. It saves creams from parching up. When used long-term, the solute can cause darkening of the skin.
Isopropilmiristat - synthetic oil which softens skin and suppresses the drying effect of alcohol. It`s applied in antiperspirants.
Castor oil – substance of natural vegetation (is procured from Palma-Christi seeds). It’s applied in many cosmetic preparations (like creams, issues for looking after the body). It’s an active biocomponent which helps the skin to form a protecting barrier against parching up. It contains about 90% of retinoic acid which creates a softening film on the skin surface. It affects your hair as a conditioner. It’s one of the ingredients of creams, lipsticks, and oils and balms for body.
Cocomide – an excellent emulator and purifier.
Sodium lauretsulphate – clearing component of weak effect. It’s applied as a cream ingredient.
Citric acid – the basic acid of citruses. It’s used in cosmetics for whitening the skin. It’s added to the ingredients of lotions because it contracts pores, produces a tonic effect, and helps to heal cracked skin. It’s beneficial for hair also -- that’s why it is often included into the composition of shampoos and balsams.
Lipids – substances of a large group of sebacic-like organic combinations not soluble in water; lipids contain fats, sterols and waxes. In cosmetic production they are applied in nutritive, regenerating, and moisturizing creams for improving barrier skin functions.
Myristyl Myristate – composite ether of miristin acid. Wax-like mass. It can`t be dissolved in water. It’s widely used in various cosmetic products (creams, lotions, shampoos, shaving stuff) as an oily and softening component. It doesn’t produce an irritating or allergic effect and helps normalization of fats exchange, as well as heightens the penetrating ability of the skin.
Methyl Paraben – methyl ether of mord-oxibenzoic acid. It’s a white, crystalic powder with a specific smell. It’s a preserver and an antiseptic; is active against gram-positive bacteria and less active against musting and gram-negative bacteria. Unlike other ethers of poreoxibenzoic acid, it’s better dissolved in water but is characterized by less antibacterial effectiveness. As a rule, it’s mixed with other preservers (phenoxiethanol, imidazolidinurea).
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