Tips for Growing Cactus

months. The most effective cactuses are epiphyllums with fragrant flowers

of a saucepan size. Unfortunately it is hard to make forest cactuses bloom.

Epiphyllum should be grown on eastern windows.

After the period of rest when the buds are forming, watering is increased.

While blooming and growth period watering regime is normal, the same as

for the other window plants, when soil becomes dry, watering is increased.

Rainwater should be used if tap water is hard. Sparging should be frequent.

Epiphyllum is an exception: a small flowerpot stimulates blooming, so

it does not require annual transplantation. The majority of forest cactuses

have grafts easily implanted. It is better to graft in summer, cutting

the top leaf-shaped segment or a stem top. Before planting, grafts are

dried for a few days.

Zigocactus topped, “Decembrist.”

Branchy arcuate sprouts consist of flat leaf-shaped segments of 4-5 cm;

plants are usually bought with buds; there are a lot of kinds. It is blooming

from the middle of November to the end of January; flowers are white,

pink, red or violet. Just bought plants bloom wonderfully, but if the

care is not decent, they won’t bloom afterwards. These cactuses

need the period of rest for blooming; watering becomes limited, the temperature

is lowered, and fresh air is let in.

Cactus problems. Shrunken stem end, spots of rottenness

– soil over wetting, especially in winter.

No growth – poor summer watering or excessive winter watering.

Bronze spots on the peel – arachnoidal tick.

Cork spots on the stem surface – pest affect, wound or super cooling.

The reason can be poor summer watering.

Soft brown spots – stem rottenness; it appears rather seldom on

cactuses growing well. Cut the affected part out, disinfect soil with

carbendasim grout. Care should become more intense.